Best of the Luberon
The best things to see and do in the beautiful Luberon region of Provence
Gordes
Gordes is simply the most stunning village in the Luberon, perhaps in France, seen from the outside. You can park on the approach road and take pictures of this iconic scene, with the village on top of its hill and the view over the Luberon valley below. Inside the village, it is a typical perched village with narrow streets, castle and church, and because of its fame, plenty of restaurants for the many day trippers to choose from.
Roussillon
Roussillon is unique, a vision in the many shades of ochre from pink to yellow that adorn its houses. Every corner turned demands a new photo. The ochre comes from the quarry that is disused but makes a spectacular attraction to walk around. Inevitably everyone who visits the Luberon comes to Roussillon, so it gets busy during the day.
Lourmarin
The most chic of the Luberon villages, with its café culture and many boutiques, Lourmarin appeals to well-heeled Parisians more than the other villages. It has a superb weekly market on Friday mornings, and the largest choice of restaurants in the Luberon.
Cucuron
Cucuron has always appealed to movie-makers, whether it’s the rooftops (Horseman on the Roof) or the iconic water basin (A Good Year). This is a year-round living village with beautiful bones, and it is a very Provencal pleasure to walk around, from the tower at one end to the dungeon at the other.
Bonnieux
Bonnieux’s past wealth is evident in its architecture, with houses that are grander than in the other Luberon villages. You can walk all the way up to the church at the top, and be rewarded with the famous view over the Luberon valley, but you don’t have to go that far for stellar views. The restaurants and shops are in the lower part of the village.
Menerbes
Menerbes was where Peter Mayle lived when he wrote his ‘A Year in Provence’ books, and has not really changed since, with its stunning position suspended above the vineyards and lavender. The centre is mostly pedestrianised and strolling around the village is a pleasure. The eateries and shops are in the lower part, the views at the upper part.
Goult
Goult is not on the must-see list for the Luberon, but this is a real gem of a village, with golden facades, a windmill and castle, and several restaurants. The two cafés on the main square are indispensable meeting places for locals and visitors alike.
Oppede-le-vieux
Spectacularly positioned against the flank of the Luberon mountain, and perfectly preserved against modernity, Oppede-le-vieux is a haunting glimpse of the past. The ruined castle looms over the houses that were built with its purloined stones. The church next to the castle has been renovated and a walk up rewards with far, wide Luberon views.
Lacoste
Lacoste is a medieval village that looks like it hasn’t changed in centuries, with its uneven cobbled streets, gates and arches. The castle on top has been restored from the days when the Marquis de Sade called it home, and gazes out over the valley to Bonnieux opposite. The terrace of the Café de France offers the same spectacular view.
Coustellet Sunday Market
It feels like the whole of the Luberon goes to the Coustellet farmers’ market on Sunday mornings, especially in summer, so go early. The reason they come is for the produce, locally picked and irresistible. It makes it worth the crowds. There is also a reduced version on Wednesday evenings, with far fewer visitors, which is when the wise go.
Isle sur Sorgue
Known as The Venice of Provence due to its position astride the Sorgue river, l’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is the antiques capital of France, with numerous shops and arcades. Market day on Sunday is spectacular as there are antiques, bric-a-brac and a food market at the same time. L’Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is also a lively town with the old quarter at its centre and plenty of cafés, restaurants and culture.
Fontaine de Vaucluse
Fontaine de Vaucluse is a village built up around the source of the Sorgue river, which can be a gushing maelstrom coming out of the earth or barely noticeable trickle depending on recent rainfall. Restaurants and tourist tat line the wonderfully clear river, as well as some interesting museums.
Ansouis
One of ‘The Most Beautiful Villages of France’, Ansouis stands amid vineyards, with the church and perfectly preserved medieval/renaissance castle on top and houses tumbling down from there. It’s small and interesting to walk around, and even has a Michelin-starred restaurant.
Saignon
Perched high above the valley, Saignon was born as a lookout to spot approaching enemy early. Today its height means stunning views and fields of lavender abound. Saignon is very well preserved, its winding streets leading to the endlessly photogenic main square and fountain, and it has a good choice of eateries too.