The best markets of Provence
The very best markets in Provence, chosen for the quality of produce as well as the setting. From Arles in the west to Nice in the east, these are the must-see markets or Provence
Cannes market
The Marché Forville is the covered market in Cannes open every morning except Mondays, and renowned for its produce, including fish landed at the harbour that day. Local restaurants use the Forville market as much as local residents.
Nice market
The Cours Saleya flower market in Nice is actually both flower market and regular fruit and veg market, but the whole thing is called the flower market. In the heart of the old town, the Cours Saleya turns into a feast for all the senses every day except Mondays. Check out the Nice speciality of socca, ideally at Chez Thérésa’s stall which has been there since the 1920s – socca is a flatbread made with chickpeas.
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L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue market
L'Isle-sur-la-Sorgue is known as the antiques capital of France and on Sundays the town is taken over by antiques, bric-a-brac and food markets, all at the same time. This makes for a crazy hotchpotch and a Provence must-see.
Aix-en-Provence markets
Aix-en-Provence has a number of markets on through the week, the best days to go are Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday when there is the food market in Place des Precheurs, non-food market in Place de Verdun, the farmers’ market in Place Richelme farmers’ market, the flower market in Place de l’Hotel de Ville, and down the central street Cours Mirabeau is a clothes and textiles market. Then at the end of the year there is the Christmas on Cours Mirabeau.
Sanary-sur-mer market
The harbour at Sanary-sur-mer is already spectacular enough, add in the weekly market and it’s a sensory overload. All the fruit and vegetables of a Provence market, plus the freshest seafood just off the boats.
Antibes market
In the old town, with its lively atmosphere and charismatic vendors, Antibes covered market can’t be missed. It is open every morning in summer, and closed Monday the rest of the year, selling everything you might associate with Provence. Then in the afternoon the craft market takes over the same space.
Vaison-la-Romaine market
An institution since the 15th century, the Great Market of Vaison-la-Romaine takes over the medieval town every Tuesday morning, with up to 450 stalls in the summer, covering every item you can think of. This is a festival of life, where all the town’s residents meet up and exchange the week’s news and views. Live music and plentiful cafés make Vaison-la-Romaine more than just a market.
Coustellet farmers' market
Coustellet Farmers’ Market is on Sunday mornings from April to December, and everyone in the Luberon wants to shop there so go early to miss the crowds. The produce is amazing, all grown in the local area. In summer there is also a Wednesday evening edition, with fewer stalls and far fewer visitors.
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Apt market
Apt market is the biggest in the Luberon, with 300 stalls in the summer, and it spreads over the most appealing parts of Apt town centre. All life is here, and vendors sell fruit, vegetables, cheese, meat, pottery, textiles, crafts, and local specialties like olive oil, honey, and lavender products.
Lourmarin market
Lourmarin's weekly market takes place every Friday morning, running through the centre of the village. It is one of the most picturesque of Provence markets and retains some of Lourmarin’s effortless elegance. Nor will you be overloaded with stalls to visit, as it is on a relatively modest scale.
Arles market
Arles market is one of the biggest in Provence and takes place on Saturday morning, stretching over 2.5km (1.5 miles). You can find everything here, not just the best fresh produce, but the locals come for clothes and shoes, even kitchen goods. Arles market is also great for people-watching.
Marseille fish market
Marseille fish market, right on the old port, is a unique experience for seafood lovers. The fishing boats empty their catch at the stall with the boat’s name on it. The only other way to get fish this fresh is to catch it yourself. And then you would miss out on seeing the locals perusing the stalls and haggling over prices.
St Remy market
St Remy market is a Wednesday ritual for many, with a great range of stalls set out in a very beautiful town centre, and the added pleasure of the many cafés and eateries adjacent to the activity. This combination of produce and setting makes St Remy many people’s favourite Provence market.
St Tropez market
It is easy to forget in St Tropez that real life goes on beyond the superyachts and luxury boutiques. If you want a taste of the St Tropez of old there is no better place than the market on Place des Lices, where the boules players give up the square to 120 stalls on Tuesday and Saturday mornings. The market is also one of the few places in St Tropez that you will pay reasonable prices.